Still, many Cypriots refuse the idea that the 50-year-old conflict is insurmountable. There are small biocommunal efforts around the island’s shared heritage, and UN Secretary-General Antonio Guterres has expressed a measured optimism around recent talks—the first substantial negotiations between the two leaders since 2017—with more meetings set for this September.
Exciting developments have also enlivened the Cypriot tourism industry in recent years. While the island has its share of large seaside resorts, a wave of chic boutique hotels, often housed in restored historic buildings, has come to the cities and the interior. And a €170 million project recently commenced to expand the international airports in Larnaca and Paphos, significantly increasing air traffic capacity. For travelers interested in food, history, culture, and nature, Cyprus is becoming a Mediterranean destination on par with the best of them. Keep reading for my trip highlights, plus recommendations from a couple of creative people who call Cyprus home.
Getting there and around
There are no nonstop flights to Cyprus from the US, but you can easily fly into Larnaca or Paphos via mainland Europe. Flying into Ercan International Airport is not recommended; it is not considered a legal port of entry by the Republic of Cyprus government, which means crossing into the south can be problematic. The island is relatively small, and renting a car is the most convenient way to get around. Note that Cyprus uses left-hand traffic, and most rental agreements prohibit crossing the Green Line in your car. There are ways to do it by taxi, but booking with a tour operator helps eliminate any guesswork.
At Rous, head chef Triantafyllos Souliotis tells the singular story of Cyprus through a tasting menu.
Courtesy Rous
Beef fillet, spanakopita empanadas, and piccalilli with beetroot ketchup and a sage jus star at Rous.
Courtesy Rous
City sights in Nicosia
What to do in Nicosia
Wander the historic center, crossing the Green Line at the Ledra Street checkpoint to see both sides. One highlight in the southern half of the old city is Hamam Omerye, a 450-year-old bathhouse restored in the early 2000s. In north Nicosia, don’t miss Selimiye Mosque, converted from a Gothic cathedral by the Ottomans, which reopened in May 2025 after a spectacular restoration. Archaeologist Anna Marangou leads informative walking tours that visit both sides of town through her company, Historic Cyprus, and sometimes partners with a Turkish Cypriot colleague.
Where to eat in Nicosia
For a standout example of modern Cypriot fine dining, Rous has excellent tasting menus and local wine pairings. Book in advance at Zanettos for generous Cypriot meze and a local crowd. Hotelier Aleksander Eng, owner of the Agora Hotel in Lefkara, recommends Beba for casual but high-quality reinterpretations of Cypriot cuisine. For drinks, Haratsi, a historic kafeneio (café-bar) on the very edge of the buffer zone, is a welcoming gathering place that often has live music. Eng likes nearby Picnic for local natural wines. Not far outside the old town is Lost + Found Drinkery, the country’s most acclaimed cocktail bar.
Where to stay in Nicosia
Opened in March 2025, Amyth of Nicosia is the city’s biggest hotel debut in years. The century-old building, a former mansion, has 10 high-ceilinged rooms and suites, which are luxuriously appointed (Acqua di Parma amenities, great bathrobes) with original design elements and plenty of natural light. My suite had a spacious terrace looking out over the Archbishop’s Palace. The hotel’s indoor-outdoor restaurant, Amyth Kouzina, is already a hit with locals.