In our Melbourne garden, the only fruit tree that produces with any regularity is a cumquat. Bitter little things, cumquats – spelled kumquats outside Australia – are not quite as versatile as most other citrus. So, I say “when life gives you cumquats, make marmalade!” – then use it in a punchy and tangy cocktail.
The Lady Marmalade is a late-night specialty in our household. You can make a non-alcoholic version by shaking up the marmalade with a tangy fruit juice. Grapefruit with a splash of lime works well; the marmalade adds texture and complexity that elevates the juice to mocktail status.
The cocktail is made with mezcal and apricot brandy but you can swap out the mezcal for aged tequila, brandy or whisky. You could also use a brighter marmalade based on lime, lemon or grapefruit, and switch the lime juice for lemon to pair with a lighter spirit.
To make the spiced marmalade, you’ll need a saucepan, juicer, microplane, measuring jug and scale.
For the cocktail, you’ll need a rocks glass, shaker and a jigger.
Cara Devine’s cumquat marmalade and other preserves from recipe book Behind the Home Bar. Photograph: Gareth Sobey
Spiced cumquat marmalade – recipe
500g cumquats
1 cup (250ml) water, or enough to cover the cumquats
250g granulated white sugar, or to taste (I like to keep my marmalade quite tart)
Pinch salt
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp smoked paprika
½ lemon, zest and juice
Quarter or slice the cumquats (depending on size). You can cover the cumquats with the water and leave them to soak overnight if you have time. This softens the fruit, which helps it to cook faster and keeps the flavour fresher, but it’s not imperative. If you do this, cook the cumquats in the same water you soaked them in.
Put the cumquats, water and sugar in a saucepan and stir over a low heat for 10-15 minutes until the fruit is tender and the sugar has dissolved. Add the salt, spices, lemon zest and juice while still over a low heat, then increase the heat and bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Reduce the heat to medium and continue boiling for about 20 minutes, or until the marmalade has thickened.
To check if it has reached setting point, place a small plate in the freezer until cold, then drop a dollop of marmalade on the cold plate. Tilt the plate and, if the marmalade doesn’t run, you’re good to go. If it runs, continue boiling for a few minutes, then use the same cold plate method to check again. Or you can just eyeball it, if you’re a cowboy like me. Fish out any pips you can see.
If marmalade is properly jarred and sealed in a sterile container, it can last in the pantry for up to six months. Once opened, keep it refrigerated and use within 12 weeks.
Lady Marmalade cocktail recipe
45ml mezcal
15ml apricot brandy
2 tbsp spiced cumquat marmalade
30ml lime juice
Cubed ice
Cumquat halves, to garnish
Add the alcohol, marmalade and lime juice to your shaker tins with ice and shake hard.
“Dump” into your glass (in other words don’t strain it, just pour in the same ice you shook with), adding more ice if necessary to fill the glass. Garnish with a cumquat half.
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This is an edited extract from Behind the Home Bar by Cara Devine, with photography by Gareth Sobey (A$36.99, NZ$36.99, Hardie Grant Books), out 1 July