It’s never a good idea to visit a destination expecting it to be some half-baked moniker, like “the Venice of the South” or “the New York of the West Coast.” But when a friend’s wedding brought me to hole up in Ontario’s Prince Edward County earlier this summer, I couldn’t help but fall for a preconceived notion: a sleepy, agrarian region that buzzed with the same creative energy I felt bubbling up in the Hudson Valley some 15 years ago.
A lot has changed in Canada’s rural Prince Edward County (not to be confused with Prince Edward Island) in recent years. As was the case with many places across the continent, the pandemic pushed city folk outwards into more rural areas, spurring renewed interest in bucolic destinations offering the reprieve of fresh air and wide open space, all within a hop, skip, and jump from major metropolises. Prince Edward County—affectionally called The County by locals—offered all of the above, ideally situated roughly halfway between Canada’s two largest cities of Toronto and Montréal.
For years, Prince Edward County was home only to a robust tomato-canning industry, a few popular freshwater beaches, and a general sense of pleasantly flying under the radar. Dating back as far as the 1980s and 1990s, however, a stream of artists and creatives began to sink roots in the area, followed by a vanguard of winemakers; the County is an island surrounded on three sides by Lake Ontario, making it one of Canada’s better climates for planting vines. So when 2020 came around, opportunity met the pre-existing movement, and the County stepped into its role as one of Canada’s most exciting destinations. More artists, chefs, and makers of all sorts are calling the County home than ever before.
But the magic of Prince Edward County isn’t the glitz of being a hotspot just for the moment. Despite all the newfound energy, the County still doesn’t try too hard: Sure, you can sample natural wines in centuries-old barns and find excellent cuisine all over, but the simple charms of biking through orchards and dipping into Lake Ontario remain just as potent and personal as they did before this area was discovered by the cool kids. If you’re looking to explore the best that burgeoning Prince Edward County has to offer, here’s how.
Getting to (and around) Prince Edward County
This is a destination where you really need a car. It’s technically possible to take Via Rail Canada to the train station in nearby Belleville, Ontario, and then take an Uber the remaining 30 minutes to the County’s main hub at Picton, and from there it’s even possible to rent bikes and ride around. But without a car, you’ll have a hard time really grasping the scale of the County, which is about 23-miles-long and 33-miles-wide—and the long country roads here make for excellent road tripping. Base yourself in Picton, Bloomfield, or Wellington, and the best attractions will never be much more than a (scenic) 25 minute drive away in any direction.
Sparkling wine at Hinterland Wine Company in Hillier, Ontario.
Courtesy Hinterland
There’s a lot of tasting options—about 40 wineries’ worth—in the County.
Courtesy Hinterland
The best things to do in Prince Edsward County
The idea of shopping might seem counterintuitive in such a rural destination as the County, but trust us: this area is positively teeming with artisans and local makers of all sorts. Besom Brooms, for instance, sells brooms, brushes, and whisks handmade using branches foraged from the local forests. Guildworks in Bloomfield sells locally made, handmade decor and visual art. The nearby Love Loft sells gifts and housewares with an emphasis on products from women-owned businesses. And be sure to check out what’s happening at Base31, a sprawling former air force base that’s been revitalized with live music performances, artist studios, and public art installations.