Henrik Vibskov loves a bit of wordplay, and this season his wordsmithery transformed protection (the collection’s theme) into “prot-egg-tion.” His show was staged in a vast warehouse, and the set was composed of rotating sculptures that looked like molecular model kits blown up large. These rose up from a white floor on which neat rows of black eggs were set up on stands. Black-clad staff tended to these orbs, spraying and brushing them all through the presentation as an accordionist played.
As most days lately feel like the world is in shambles, protection is a topical subject. Vibskov’s approach to the idea was not about repelling danger, but about nurturing; an embrace rather than armor. As the show notes put it, the designer was offering a “vision of softness as strength.”
The designer and team looked not only at eggshells, which protect chicks, but at garment bags, slip covers, and instrument cases, all of which safeguard objects against harm, and which were apparently incorporated into the designs, though it was difficult to discern how. What translated were the checked boxer shorts and pajama-stripe separates. As always, there were many beautiful custom jacquards with motifs that spoke in various ways to the season’s story, including hens. While the collection didn’t go over easy, Vibskov’s positive message is one that we should take care to heed.