Even on what was by far the hottest day of the year, guests were hardly bothered by the hour-long delay of the GmbH show. The venue was well air-conditioned and all the seats had backrests. That’s almost a miracle at fashion shows these days, but the most convincing reason for putting up with the wait was the anticipation. It’s no secret that GmbH is enriching Berlin Fashion Week in every way. The audience is the most high-profile, the fashion is exquisite without exception, and the political message behind it is self-evident. The brand founders Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Işık are professionals in this regard.
“Emotionally, the last few weeks have been draining. Marked by a lot of pain and sadness,” they said of their work on the show, which began with a minute’s silence for the victims in Gaza. But instead of anger and rage, only tangible beauty reached the catwalk. Their thoughts revolved around charity and debt relief, family celebrations, and coming-of-age experiences. Like almost all of their previous shows, it was moving and emotional. In this case, it was divided into three acts, repeatedly interrupted by music, including the score to Hitchcock’s Vertigo and a piece by Zeki Müren, Turkey’s queer visionary and music star.
Huseby and Işık prove the gender flexibility of any wardrobe. They embellished their waist-emphasizing blazers with large knots and bow details at the back, while knee-high leather boots were paired with airy cape shirts and boxer shorts. Lots of satin and skin brought physicality to the fore; while some pants were unbuttoned at the hip bones, most of them were still held together with belts. Even the most formal looks lacked nothing in lightness—feathers and strips of fabric fluttered through the air.
Tops made of euro banknotes fastened with small bows had many of the guests pulling out their cell phones. “Beauty and message must go hand in hand. We want to make beautiful clothes. But if you neglect craftsmanship and quality, the power of the message is completely lost at some point,” said Huseby. Fortunately, this is a fear that these two talented designers don’t have to face.