Cleethorpes Pier, circled by the local gull squad, looks at its picture-postcard best. Ahead of the lunch crowd making for Papa’s Fish & Chips restaurant, I’m taking a seat in the pier’s ballroom to hear seaside historian Kathryn Ferry talk about her latest book, Twentieth Century Seaside Architecture.
Ordering a pot of tea, I’m taken back to my student days. Back in the late 1990s, the ballroom hosted Pier 39, a sticky-floored nightclub where getting your heels wedged in the planks after too many vodkas was considered par for the course. Following a shift waitressing at a nearby fish restaurant, our girl gang would douse our hair in Charlie Red body spray to mask the fug of haddock before dancing the night away where the Humber estuary meets the North Sea.
Cleethorpes map
The pier first opened on August bank holiday 1873 to a flock of locals and day-trippers, many of whom were taking some of the first train and ferry-service packages across the Humber from South Yorkshire and the Midlands. It’s not hard to imagine the giddy thrill of glimpsing this elegant pavilion structure for the very first time: it stretched 365 metres into the sea.
I grew up in Grimsby, where Cleethorpes had long felt like a sandy wonderland, filled with bright lights and sugar highs
Ferry cites the pier as one of a trove of local architectural treasures: postwar buildings with funky rooflines, illuminations, shops fronted with Victorian cast-iron verandas … “enough surviving seaside things”, she tells the crowd, “to ensure Cleethorpes retains its very distinctive feel”.
I grew up in Grimsby, just a couple of miles up the road. Cleethorpes had long felt like a sandy wonderland, filled with bright lights and sugar highs. During the pandemic, after 20 years living away, I came back to Cleethorpes from London and I now feel lucky to be raising a family in the sandy footsteps of my childhood. Summer feels magical – we are tourists at home. My nine-year-old and toddler both love splashing about in the free, open-air paddling pool, riding the dinky Cleethorpes Coast Light Railway and cycling along Buck Beck – a long, calming coastal path where ice-cream at the family-run Brew Stop cafe is a rite of passage. In summer, you can rent the owners’ little beach hut and watch the world go by from your stripy deckchair.
A pre-war ‘It’s quicker by rail’ poster. Photograph: Artwork by Andrew Johnson. Science & Society Picture Library/Getty Images
During my university and London years – roughly 2000 to 2020 – the resort’s cultural identity began to shift with the closure of iconic venues such as, in 2007, the Winter Gardens. An entertainment venue dating back to the 1930s, its stage was once graced by acts including Elton John, the Clash and Roxy Music, not to mention playing host to the feted “Bags Ball” weekly dance night. Also closed, after a 23-year run as one of the area’s leading theme parks, was Pleasure Island and its beloved Boomerang ride, which ceased functioning in 2016. And some of the area’s big-draw events – including the Radio 1 Roadshow, which made its last stop here in 1999 fronted by S Club 7 – were scratched from the listings. In the words of one local: “It felt like the fun police had come to town.”
Now, building on events such as the Summer Steam festival and the Great Grub Fest, there’s a definite sense of cultural renaissance brewing. Cleethorpes seafront is in the process of a long-awaited £18.4m regeneration project that will focus on a reimagining of the Pier Gardens and the reintroduction of the old market place. With a potential direct train link from Cleethorpes to London in the offing, the resort is extending its bucket-and-spade appeal to a new generation.
On 2 August – with the stage still warm from sets by the Charlatans and Ash as part of DocksFest – Cleethorpes’ Meridian showground is set to transform into an open-air celebration of cool and contemporary sounds covering jazz, funk and soul, as the area’s newest festival, Everybody Loves the Sunshine, lays down 10 hours of live music for just £10 a ticket. Together with Brighton-based record label Tru Thoughts, the festival is curated by the Culture House, a local charity that has been instrumental in plugging the cultural gap across North East Lincolnshire, an area that can often feel on the fringes of the national arts and culture scene.
The sandy dunes around the Humber Mouth Yacht Club are the perfect spot for big-sky sundowners and picnics
Beyond the music, nature abounds. At Marine Embankment beach, bird lovers can spy curlews, lapwings and oystercatchers nesting in the saltmarshes (check tide times), while the sandy dunes around the Humber Mouth Yacht Club (about an hour’s walk from the Pier) are the perfect spot for big-sky sundowners and picnics. Steel & Soul runs a blissful drop-in morning yoga class on the beach here every other Sunday until the end of September (£10 a class).
A must-visit at this end of the town is the Humberston Fitties, an otherworldly village of about 300 beach chalets that sprang up beside the sand dunes after the first world war. Many of these small dwellings, including artist Sarah Palmer’s home (£80 a night for a two-night minimum stay, sleeps up to four), are available to rent and make a cosy weekend base.
For a stylish home-from-home in the heart of Cleethorpes, check into Cloves B&B (from £95), tucked off the main promenade. Hosts Nick and Maria Ross serve up beautiful home-cooked breakfasts, and if you land on a Friday you can build a picnic hamper from their pop-up larder, which sells freshly baked sourdough and pastries, as well as fruit, veg, cheese, butter and juices, many of which are organic and locally produced. From Saturday to Tuesday, the Edwardian breakfast room then transforms into Cafe Cloves, an intimate dining spot serving a menu of five seasonal dishes. On our last visit, we shared tandoori king prawn skewers with a chopped spinach and red onion salad, cucumber raita and charred lime along with the signature Cloves fishcake – which I could happily eat every day.
Cloves B&B. Photograph: Katie Buffey
Another great spot for lunch is Nasturtium, where head chef Jack Phillips riffs on classics such as catch of the day with a smoked butter sauce, Japanese kosho and a tempura enoki (fried floured mushrooms). Phillips also channels his passion for Asian cooking through his popular pop-up food stall Wakame Cleethorpes. Follow up lunch with a mooch down Sea View Street for boutique threads and heavenly plants and flowers, ending with a slice of lemon meringue pie at Marples.
As for fish and chips – you’re spoilt for choice. An old-fashioned booth at Steel’s Cornerhouse Restaurant for haddock, chips and a pot of tea with bread and butter always feels special. Or, if the weather’s fine, nothing beats walking along the beach with a Papa’s takeaway, eating a tray of chips drenched in vinegar, with the sand between your toes.
“Cleethorpes feels like a sleeper, on the cusp of being awakened,” says Kathryn Ferry. Something tells me this resort is about to have its time in the sun again.