You may dash for your morning commuter train, but you won’t want to rush for the sleeper to Vienna. The Nightjet train to the Austrian capital is the most illustrious departure of the day from Amsterdam. There is an art to conducting the perfect departure and the perfect arrival, the bookends of a thrilling overnight journey.
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There are four major hubs for sleeper services across western and central Europe: Amsterdam, Berlin, Vienna and Zurich. Then there are secondary nodes at Budapest, Brussels, Milan, Munich, Paris and Prague. Most of the region’s night trains start or end in one of these 10 cities. Whatever your departure point, savour the moment by going for an aperitif and a relaxed dinner before boarding. And upon arrival, don’t just dash on – linger over a coffee and let the morning, and the city, develop around you.
Amsterdam Centraal
For ÖBB Nightjets to Basel, Innsbruck, Munich, Vienna and Zurich; and European Sleeper to Berlin, Dresden and Prague
Don’t miss the excellent Grand Café Restaurant 1e Klas in the former first-class waiting room (entrance via platform 2B). It opens at 9.30am, so the perfect spot for breakfast after decanting from a Nightjet (or an early-morning Eurostar from London), and stays open till late evening, so also ideal for pre-departure supper. It serves fairly priced Dutch staples in a space that oozes retro flair. The Guardian, no less, has called it one of the “finest station eateries in Europe”.
An alternative pre-departure option for drinks and dinner is Bistro Berlage in the undercroft of the former Beurs (stock exchange), seven minutes walk from the station.
The Grand Café Restaurant 1e Klas in Amsterdam Centraal. Photograph: Greg Balfour Evans/Alamy
This can be a frustrating station, with fierce ticket barriers guarding platform access (luggage lockers in the east wing from €10 per day). It gets another black mark for the lack of showers for passengers arriving on overnight trains, but a big plus for being at the very heart of the city it serves – its enchanted canal network is right outside the station.
Just head south from the station to hit the main sights. If, like me, you prefer to cut away from the crowds, then leave the station on the north side and hop on the F4 ferry for a free 15-minute ride to the NSDM Wharf, an old shipyard that is now a creative and cultural hub with many alt-vibe cafes.
Berlin Hauptbahnhof
A stroll by the Spree River is an ideal prelude for a long distance train journey from Berlin. Photograph: John Kellerman/Alamy
For ÖBB Nightjets to Basel, Graz, Paris, Vienna and Zurich; SJ/RDC or Snälltåget to Stockholm; MÁV Euronight to Bratislava, Prague and Budapest; European Sleeper to Amsterdam and Brussels; and, from later this year, PKPIC night sleepers to Chelm and Przemyśl in eastern Poland
A multi-level essay in glass with a striking vaulted roof, the station is on five levels, with level 0 in the middle and trains departing/arriving on levels -2 and +2 – all utterly confusing for a first-timer. The station isn’t the most relaxing spot to linger, but for the exalted few, Deutsche Bahn’s premium (first-class) lounge is an oasis of calm.
For an extraordinary breakfast in a stunning setting, book a table at Käfer on the roof terrace of the Reichstag (900 metres from station, open daily from 9am). For a posh pre-departure dinner, Paris-Moskau at Alt-Moabit 141 (open from 6pm) is a traditional Berlin restaurant in a half-timbered building just 400 metres away.
Breakfast at Käfer on the roof terrace of the Reichstag. Photograph: Thomas Rosenthal
With time on your hands, catch the vibe of the German capital by wandering along the banks of the River Spree, passing the Reichstag en route to the Brandenburg Gate.
Leave luggage at the DB Gepäck lockers (levels -1 and +1, from €2 for two hours or €4 a day). Shower for a fee at the “rail and fresh” facility on level 0.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
A visit to Vienna’s stunning Amelienbad pool will help compensate for the lack of showers at the city’s railway station. Photograph: Viennaslide/Alamy
For ÖBB Nightjets to Amsterdam, Berlin, Bregenz, Brussels, Cologne, Dresden, Hamburg, Hanover, Milan, Paris, Venice and Zurich (also until late September, additionally with ÖBB Nightjets to Florence, Rome and Verona); for Euronight to Kraków, Stuttgart and Warsaw; and other operators to Bucharest, Braşov, Kyiv and Lviv, plus summer-season overnight trains to Rijeka and Split
Fully opened 10 years ago, Vienna’s Hauptbahnhof rates as one of Europe’s most efficient transport hubs and boasts a greater range of destinations than any other station in Europe.
For a relaxed breakfast, skip the fast-food options in the station and head for Café Goldegg, with its elegant wood panelling and art nouveau style (on corner of Goldeggasse and Argentinierstrasse). Ask nicely and they’ll even knock you up a full English.
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For evening eats, I recently followed the advice of Mark Smith, the legendary Man in Seat 61, and tried the excellent Ringsmuth at Johannitergasse 1 (closed Sun and Mon), a traditional Viennese restaurant with schnitzel galore as well as fish and veggie options.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof is south of the city centre. Three stops north on the U1 metro is Stephansplatz, where you can cleanse your soul at the lovely St Stephens Cathedral. Or go two stops south on the U1 to Reumannplatz to cleanse the body in art deco elegance at the wonderful Amelienbad indoor pool – a triumph of progressive socialist design. A visit will help make up for the lack of showers at the railway station for those arriving on night trains (but there are luggage lockers aplenty, from €2).
Zurich Hauptbahnhof
A colourful angel floats over the concourse at Zurich Hauptbahnhof. Photograph: eFesenko/Alamy
For ÖBB Nightjets to Amsterdam, Berlin, Bremen, Cologne, Graz, Hamburg and Vienna; and Euronight to Budapest, Dresden, Ljubljana, Prague and Zagreb
Zurich’s main station is a place for grand arrivals – check out the colourful flying angel pivoting over the concourse. Then freshen up with a shower (mezzanine level, €12). And now it’s time for breakfast …
My go-to spot is Roots on Lintheschergasse, just two minutes from the platforms. Power porridge and avocado toast go down a treat after a night on the rails, as do all sorts of shakes and juices. For pre-departure supper, try Maru, a little oasis of Japan on level 2 of the shopping complex under the station serving matcha and “Japanese comfort food”.
I love Zurich for its small-town feel. Having arrived on a night train and lingered over breakfast, I usually wander down pedestrianised Bahnhofstrasse and make for St Peterhofstatt, a haven of calm in the historic heart of the city.
London
The Caledonian Sleeper chugging through the Highlands
Paddington station for the GWR Night Riviera for 11 destinations in Cornwall; Euston station for Caledonian Sleeper trains to 40-plus stations in Scotland
Let’s not forget London. The last direct night sleeper service to the continent stopped 45 years ago (that was the Night Ferry to Brussels and Paris, which for a spell even conveyed a through sleeping car to Switzerland) but you can slip between crisp, clean sheets in sleepers departing the UK capital for the Cornish coast or Scottish Highlands.
Arriving passengers can benefit from posh arrival lounges with free showers at both Paddington and Euston, although the facilities at the latter are only for those who booked en suite accommodation on the train.
Passengers departing Euston should board early and head straight to the Club Car (seats are limited) for dinner for a taste of Scotland and a wee dram as they head north. Those departing from Paddington to Cornwall should take a chilled bottle of champagne to enjoy in the GWR lounge (the former royal waiting room) on Platform 1.
Nicky Gardner is co-author of Europe by Rail: The Definitive Guide. The 18th edition is available from the Guardian Bookshop for £20.99 (additional postage charges may apply)