Though he’s built an empire on glamorous eveningwear, with this resort collection Elie Saab sought to prove that he’s just as serious about daywear. The lineup included trans-seasonal staples such as flared jeans; wide, high-waisted trousers; a double-breasted jacket in gabardine; and a roomy blouson in chocolate-colored leather, shown here with the designer’s latest takes on the safari skirt, in twill or buttery black leather. A trench coat played it classic or feminine thanks to side zippers designed to reveal or conceal a splay of accordion pleats.
With an eye to easy layering, Saab put his own spin on hero pieces like a denim jacket (here with macramé sleeves), one-and-done day dresses in English eyelet or a floral-printed knit, and fine knits, lacy lingerie tops, and travel-friendly sweaters that slouch just so.
From time to time, the designer ventured into youthful new territory. A polka-dot silk pajama top and shorts ensemble was worn under one of those blazers, for example. Picking up on an idea from past runway outings, a multi-colored cardigan and bralette twinset was paired with low-rise flares.
But since Saab’s ladies live to shine, especially by night, the designer delivered with numbers like a mesh knit lingerie dress, a beige tweed winking with flecks of sky blue, or gradient gunmetal sequins on a gown or a jumpsuit. A sunburst halter dress was showered with crystals; a sunrise sequin effect shimmered in hues of gold, dusty pink, and mocha. Bags included a new iteration of The Wave—a collaboration with designer Marina Raphael—now with a bamboo handle.