For the second season in a row, Frederik Berner Kühl opted for a presentation format instead of a runway show—an apt choice for a designer whose work is focused on quality, rather than creating buzzy moments. This time around, Berner Kühl was inspired by inhabited spaces, and particularly the relationship between our interior lives and our clothes.
By way of illustration, the designer brought furniture and decorative objects from his and his partner’s own apartment—including a Wegner airport chair and Egon Eiermann desk—to furnish Brigade Gallery (artworks adorning the walls were curated by Berner Kühl from the gallery’s collection). A rotation of models slowly made their way through the constructed interior spaces, making themselves at home among the furniture (so much so, it was at times difficult to tell the models apart from stylish guests).
The overall effect was cozy: cotton-silk cardigans were layered over sweaters, paired with brown corduroy that could have easily been found on a ’70s sofa. In keeping with the theme, the designer worked with heavier fabrics this season, using deadstock silk polyesters and wools—which might otherwise have been turned into curtains—for his tailored outerwear. Elsewhere, lightweight shirts were designed to resemble pajamas that can be worn both inside and outside the home.
For Berner Kühl—who grew up with an interiors-obsessed mother—garments should be assigned the same value as the objets d’art that so many of us surround ourselves with. “These are things we really cherish when used, and then we keep them for ages,” the designer explained. “Our clothing can be used for as long a time, so it becomes part of your personal collection—you actually start collecting clothing like you would collect objects.”