This spring, I spent five weeks travelling around Mexico – my longest time away from home since becoming a vegan two and a half years ago. It was a learning experience: lots of incredible vegan food, gallons of fall-back guacamole and the odd cheese-related disaster. This is what I found out about being a vegan on holiday, and the advice I received from more seasoned vegan travellers.
Choose your destination wisely
“I have been completely blown away by the difference in attitude and progressiveness of places,” says Alexis Gauthier, a Michelin-starred vegan chef. “I’ve found the cuisines of Mexico, India and the eastern Mediterranean/Levant all vegan-forward. Their use of beans and pulses as a fundamental ingredient and minimal reliance on dairy means they make excellent choices for a vegan holiday.” I second Mexico: pretty much everywhere serves beans, rice and guacamole, and most restaurants will knock up some veggie tacos.
Vegan tacos in a restaurant in Mexico. Photograph: Rachel Dixon
But don’t rule anywhere out – even France
“I’m sorry to say my beloved homeland of France has not yet caught up with the world with vegan food, but there are ways to be smart,” says Gauthier. “In the north it is more difficult, as everything is still mostly based on heavy cream, butter and red meat. Paris is changing – there are now lots of really exciting places opening, especially bakeries.” That wasn’t my experience. I was in Paris last autumn, and it was still difficult to find vegan options.
“In the south it’s better, as menus naturally rotate around seasonal vegetables,” continues Gauthier. “Falafel is popular, as is socca [chickpea flatbread], panisse [chickpea fries] and tapenade. I swear you can live on really good tomatoes, aubergines, basil, chickpeas, olive oil and olives for ever! And there is always France’s greatest dish: ratatouille, my favourite dish in the world.”
Holidaying in the UK may be harder than you think
“Don’t assume that all of the UK is vegan-friendly,” says Holly Johnson, editor of Vegan Food & Living magazine. “What’s normal in a cafe in Bristol is weird and wacky, and even offensive, to those in more remote farming communities. I once got laughed out of a corner shop in Devon for asking for oat milk.”
Go on a city break
“Berlin is an amazing city for vegans, with a real forward-thinking scene, as are Brighton and Vienna,” says Gauthier. I would add London, where eating out is effortless (although expensive), and Mexico City, where I ate exclusively at vegan restaurants. Peta, the animal rights organisation, has free vegan city guides to Berlin, New York, Rio de Janeiro and Sydney, plus one for the Indian state of Goa.
Give the countryside a chance
“I’ve learned never to assume that there won’t be vegan options,” says Elisa Allen from Peta. “I was recently in a small village in rural Ireland. An online search hadn’t turned up any options, so I was pleasantly surprised when the local cafe had two home-baked vegan cakes and a vegan lasagne. The owner’s daughter had recently gone vegan, so they were inspired to expand their menu.”
Look for an alternative scene
Sunset in El Cuyo, Yucatán, Mexico. Photograph: Megapress Images/Alamy
In El Cuyo, a laid-back fishing village at the northern tip of Mexico’s Yucatán peninsula, practically every restaurant had hummus and tofu on the menu.
Use the Happy Cow app
Every expert I spoke to recommended the Happy Cow app and website, and I relied heavily on it in Mexico. “Happy Cow is your best friend for seeking vegan options while travelling. You can use it to research local restaurants beforehand or while you’re strolling around a city,” says Chelsea Harrop from Veganuary. “You can filter by vegan and vegetarian eateries, as well as restaurants with plant-based options if the rest of your travel party isn’t eating vegan. I’ve visited many small towns in Ireland and the Scottish islands where I didn’t expect to find anything vegan at all, and Happy Cow has always served me well.”
Learn some helpful phrases in the local language
Not everyone is familiar with the word vegan. Sascha Camilli from Peta says: “A friend of mine tried saying ‘vegan’ in Bali and they all thought she meant ‘pagan’. In Portugal, I’ve been offered gluten-free food because they didn’t know what vegan meant.” A simple explanation, such as “No meat, dairy or eggs, please”, will help. Harrop says: “Learn the words for ingredients such as egg, milk and fish so you can spot them on menus. Phrases such as ‘I don’t eat fish’ or ‘Does it contain egg?’ are also useful.”
Carry a cheat sheet
“In Egypt, I had an infographic in Arabic that said exactly what I didn’t eat,” says Camilli. Peta’s Sadie Buckles says: “When I visited China, my professor helped me make a little card that said: ‘I am a strict vegetarian. No meat, dairy, eggs, fish, milk or cheese. Onions and garlic are OK.’ In China, they will ask if you are Buddhist vegetarian, which means no pungent foods such as garlic, onion, leeks, chives and shallots.”
Call ahead
Jennifer White from Peta contacts restaurants and hotels in advance to explain she’s vegan. “Be super nice about it, and chances are they will make you a lovely meal even if they don’t have anything on the menu,” she says. Johnson says: “I find that most chefs are happy to accommodate, and actually excited to cook something a bit different. I always make sure I show my gratitude – they might just add more plant-based options to the menu in future.” I phoned ahead on a city break to Genoa, and chefs prepared delicious dishes around seasonal ingredients such as artichokes.
Stay in a vegan hotel
The Vegan Welcome website lists 35 hotels around the world that are 100% vegan in the cuisine they offer. It also has a directory of vegan-friendly hotels. Retreat-style holidays almost always cater well for vegans, too.
Consider self-catering
‘Exploring the shops and markets is a great way to connect with the local culture.’ Photograph: Posed by model; Maria Korneeva/Getty Images
“If you’ve researched your destination and it doesn’t seem vegan-friendly, choose self-catering,” says Harrop. “This way, you can explore the shops and markets, which is a great way to connect with the local culture.” Emma Robinson from Veganuary says: “One of my favourite activities as a traveller is visiting traditional markets. I enjoy looking at the unfamiliar produce and trying to figure out what it is and how to prepare it.” In Mexico, I tried chaya, a spinach-like plant; nopales, the fleshy fronds of the prickly pear; and huitlacoche, offputtingly described as corn fungus, but tasty in a taco. Buy the basics at supermarkets, says White: “They are surprisingly well stocked in many countries, and you can find oat milk, tofu etc.”
“Make the most of online vegan communities when planning your trip, especially Facebook groups and influencers on Instagram and TikTok,” says Harrop. “Most large cities are likely to have a vegan community and there are vegan travel groups on Facebook that are full of invaluable tips.”
Make your vegan quest part of the holiday
‘Don’t be afraid to go off the beaten path to uncover local vegan treasures.’ Photograph: Coldsnowstorm/Getty Images
“When travelling, I treat vegan cafes and restaurants as tourist destinations in their own right so I can work them into my itinerary,” says Harrop. “Don’t be afraid to go off the beaten path to uncover local vegan treasures – it’s a rewarding way to connect with a city’s culture.” Sophie-Anne Nabhan-Sandison from Veganuary did just that in Dubrovnik. “We found an amazing little vegan restaurant hidden away and it was one of the best meals I have ever had,” she says. Last summer, I sought out a vegan restaurant in Lindos, Rhodes, and even my gyros-addicted boyfriend had to admit it was worth the trip.
Harrop has a word of warning. “If you have your eye on a certain place, always double-check it’s open on the days you’re travelling. I once spent over an hour walking to a vegan cafe in Paris only to find it was closed when I got there.”
But don’t be boring
It’s really frustrating for your non-vegan travel companions to trail round after you for hours, looking for somewhere you can eat. If you find somewhere that ticks everyone else’s boxes – full of local people, on a beautiful piazza – will it kill you to eat bread and salad for a night? “All my friends and family are so supportive – they wouldn’t want to take me anywhere that’s meat-heavy,” says Johnson. “However, I’d never stop them going, and if necessary I’d just eat before or afterwards and join in the fun.”
Research ‘accidentally vegan’ dishes
‘Every country will have a vegan staple’ … focaccia with tomatoes. Photograph: Sabinoparente/Getty Images/iStockphoto
“I recently went to Cyprus and a lot of the country’s traditional dishes were vegan-friendly,” says Johnson. “Hummus, falafel, olive bread and certain meze dishes are all packed with flavour, so you don’t feel you’re missing out.” Ed Winters, author of This Is Vegan Propaganda and How to Argue with a Meat Eater, found the same on holiday in southern Italy. “I was pleasantly surprised by how much local cuisine was plant-based or could easily be made suitable for vegans. For example, one of the most famous foods from Puglia is focaccia barese with tomatoes and olives.” Every country will have a vegan staple such as rice, wheat, oats, maize, lentils, beans, potatoes, taro or yam.
Ask (politely) for alterations
In France, says Gauthier, you could request chickpeas on your salad instead of goat’s cheese or tuna. In Mexico, I asked for my enfrijoladas “sin huevos”: soft tortillas smothered in refried beans, greens, tomato sauce and ground pumpkin seeds, minus the fried eggs on top. Many restaurants are happy to accommodate simple requests like this. On the other hand, sometimes you have to take no for an answer. At one cafe, I asked for hummus on my toast instead of butter and jam (hummus was on the menu). They said no. I offered to pay extra. Still no.
Seek out vegan versions of local dishes
Hangover-busting … barbecue mushroom torta with roast potatoes and bean chilli. Photograph: Rachel Dixon
No vegan goes to Spain to eat Thai green curry – we want tapas and paella like everyone else. On a trip to Germany last year, I found restaurants were particularly good at offering plant-based versions of traditional dishes such as schnitzel (breaded meat) and maultaschen (filled dumplings). Oaxaca in Mexico had several places serving vegan takes on pozole (soup made from hominy – a type of dried corn – with soya chunks instead of meat), chilaquiles (stewed tortilla chips, minus the usual dairy) and tortas (a kind of hearty sandwich), including a hangover-busting barbecue mushroom version.
It’s OK to go off-piste sometimes
On longer holidays, you might find yourself craving a change from the local cuisine. Chinese, Indian, Thai, Korean and Japanese restaurants usually cater well to vegans – in Mexico City, I found an incredible vegan ramen place.
Read – and write – reviews
Vegan travellers tend to be a helpful bunch, highlighting plant-based dishes in restaurant reviews on Tripadvisor, Google and so on. Make sure you return the favour, says Harrop: “Always remember to leave your own reviews to help other travellers seeking vegan options. Share photos of the dishes and menus if you can.”
Use map apps to your advantage
It sounds ridiculous, but when I fancied a change from Mexican food, I searched for “tofu” on my phone’s map. It led me to a fantastic Japanese smokehouse and sake bar, which served agedashi tofu and vegan sushi. White says: “Some countries have navigation apps that are more widely used than Google Maps. For example, South Korea has Naver. Download and use those apps instead.”
Pack snacks
Much like at home, it’s always wise to carry snacks. Johnson says: “Don’t ever assume there will be anything to eat, especially at an airport. Once you’re on the flight, most airlines do offer a vegan option if you’ve ordered it – but don’t forget that said vegan option might just be a banana and a pair of chopsticks.” Harrop suggests snack bars and nuts; I carted a packet of fancy granola around Mexico.
And plant milk
“Always take oat milk,” says Johnson. “There’s nothing worse than waking up in a hotel room, excited for your morning cup of tea, and seeing those sad little pots of UHT cow’s milk.” I like travel-sized Oatly sachets if I’m on the move.
Try vegan activities
I once did a cookery class in Thailand and learned about ingredients such as banana blossom, which I now use regularly in curries. Lots of cities have vegan food tours, and companies such as Naturetrek offer wildlife holidays staying at vegan hotels.
Support animals
A West Indian manatee at the Sian Ka’an biosphere reserve, Mexico. Photograph: Rodrigo Friscione/Getty Images/Image Source
I visited the Sian Ka’an biosphere reserve in Yucatán – the entry fee helps protect the habitat of manatees, sea turtles, jaguars, pumas and more. But choose carefully. “Fifteen years ago, I went to Thailand and was so excited to see a baby elephant in a restaurant. Now, I’d avoid places like that,” says Johnson. “Research shows that wild animals being used for human entertainment have most certainly suffered some kind of abuse and are kept in unnatural and often cruel conditions. I would love to try authentic experiences such as safaris or visiting an animal sanctuary, but it’s important to check the provenance of the company or organisation first.”
Accept you will have slip-ups
In one restaurant, I ordered what I thought was a vegan dip, only to be presented with a bowl of melted cheese. And at a tiny campsite in the middle of the jungle, miles from anywhere, I was given scrambled eggs for breakfast. “This has happened to me a few times over the years,” says Johnson. “I don’t let it worry me – we all slip up sometimes and I just carry on as normal. Obviously that’s different if you have an allergy, but I’m vegan for different reasons.”
Don’t sweat about supplements
At home, I take a vegan supplement. On holiday, life’s too short. I just drink the odd green juice and try to eat a varied diet. Johnson does take a multivitamin on holiday, but says: “It’s not something I worry too much about – no one is going to die of a deficiency during a week or two away.”
You can still have an ice-cream
Dark chocolate ice-cream tends to be dairy-free. Photograph: fhm/Getty Images
Vegans aren’t condemned to a life of sorbet. In particular, dark chocolate ice-cream is often dairy-free.
If all else fails, there’s always chips
“I would suggest always ordering a side of fries with every salad or curry,” says Gauthier. “It keeps the holiday vibe high!”
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