Bruntsfield Links
To the south of popular parkland the Meadows, Bruntsfield Links offers a quieter, calmer stretch of green, free of Big Top entertainment. Book a table at cute wine bar and cafe Margot for brunch and order french toast with ginger-poached pears and bay-leaf custard, or hot smoked trout with leek fritters. Later in the day stop by for oysters, small plates and natural wine by the glass. Bag a window-seat or a table outside to enjoy views of Arthur’s Seat, which at sunset seems to glow pink and gold. Sister restaurant LeftField on the same corner is gorgeous for an elegant dinner with the same incredible views.
Portobello beach
Space aplenty … Portobello beach. Photograph: Iain Masterton/Alamy
This is Edinburgh’s seaside so hardly a secret, and on hot days it does get busy. However, compared with beaches on the south coast, it might as well be the Hebrides. Only the middle few sections nearest the cafes get truly crowded and it’s such a long stretch that there’s plenty of space to find your own little sandy idyll. Head to Shrimp Wreck for a fishfinger sarnie, or pick up a slice of Civerino’s pizza and a local Bellfield beer. Unsurprisingly there’s excellent ice-cream to be found; try a scoop at Oscar’s Gelato.
Lothian Buses 19 or 26 from Princes Street.
Hidden closes on the Royal Mile
Tranquil hideaway … Dunbars Close. Photograph: Craig Leggat/Alamy
Edinburgh’s Royal Mile is the centre of the festival action, but even here there are quiet escapes, usually into a close, the narrow alleyways that make Edinburgh’s Old Town so unique. Dunbar’s Close is a favourite, off Canongate towards the bottom of the Royal Mile. It’s a 17th-century-styled formal garden with benches and one of the city’s most tranquil hideaways. Pick up a delicious direct-trade Brazilian coffee and pastel de nata from Santu Coffee and enjoy the peace, just steps from the party. Similarly, Lady Stair’s Close, home to the free Writers’ Museum, is ideal for a quick breather. You’ll find it just off the Lawnmarket towards the top of the Royal Mile.
The Shore, Leith
Scandi style … the Shore, Leith. Photograph: robertharding/Alamy
Often compared to Copenhagen, this is Edinburgh’s waterfront eating and drinking destination. Do what the locals do and sit by the river with a cold pint of local beer from Malt and Hops, or discover the tap room at Moonwake Beer Co. Try a huge takeaway sandwich from Domenico’s for lunch – pre-order for speed. Or for indoor dining, new seafood restaurant Barry Fish is the hottest reservation this summer.
Edinburgh Trams to the Shore.
The Royal Botanic Garden and Canonmills
Art of horticulture … Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh. Photograph: Angus McComiskey/Alamy
A true jewel in Edinburgh’s crown, the lush Royal Botanic Garden spans 72 acres with a collection dating back to the 17th century. Catch your breath among the trees, and don’t miss the panoramic views of the Edinburgh skyline from the lawns of Inverleith House. Nearby, I rate Singapore Coffee House for kaya toast and slow-cooked eggs, or roti canai with pickled vegetables. Traditional cafe Betty and George is a cosy spot for tea and cake or a bowl of soup. For a more formal meal, The Tollhouse has a great set lunch and overlooks the river.
Lothian Buses 9, 23 or 27 from The Mound.
Stockbridge
Cult bakery … Lannan.
This bustling neighbourhood is a home to many of the city’s best restaurants, yet escapes much of the festival madness. For a top-tier picnic head to Herbie of Edinburgh for deli treats, or Mootz General Store for freshly baked schiacciata sandwiches – the classic is mortadella, stracciatella soft cheese[added soft cheese because it confusingly is also soup and gelato] and pistachio pesto. If you can bear the queue, add perfect patisserie from cult bakery Lannan. Enjoy your wares in Inverleith Park, there’s a big pond with swans and ducks, mature trees, and if you’re travelling with children, a good playpark. You can also walk from Stockbridge along a pretty wooded stretch of the Water of Leith path. For a slap-up Italian trattoria-style lunch, try Sotto or the excellent value set lunch at Stockbridge Eating House.
Lothian Buses 29, 33 or 37 from South Bridge.
Newhaven
Stay for sunset … Newhaven Lighthouse. Photograph: Angus McComiskey/Alamy
Take the tram to the final stop and discover Newhaven harbour. Walk along the waterfront to Wardie Bay, a tucked away beach and a favourite local swimming spot. Return to Newhaven and order fish and chips from The Fishmarket to eat outside watching the boats bob in the harbour. Maybe stay for the sunset with a cold glass of wine on the terrace, then it’s an easy tram back to the city centre.
Edinburgh Trams to Newhaven.
Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Park
Stick to the paths! Edinburgh Old Town seen from Arthurs Seat. Photograph: Craig Steedman Photography/Alamy
A city with a mountain in the middle? Pretty iconic, and also the perfect place to feel miles away from it all. The main route to the top can get busy, but there’s a network of paths around the park to explore. Check the noticeboards and do stick to the paths, there are steep drops. For an easy option, follow Queens Drive around the bottom of the mountain, taking in Dunsapie Loch and St Margaret’s Loch and giving 360-degree views of the city, across the Forth to Fife and to the Pentland Hills. It takes about an hour and a half to walk and is bike, buggy and wheelchair friendly. Pick up a sandwich from Alby’s Southside to take with you.
Union Canal: Fountainbridge
The canal and accompanying path goes all the way to Glasgow through Falkirk, so you can walk for miles if you feel so inclined. Start at Lochrin Basin, then stroll to Harrison Park (1.2 miles), past brightly painted residential houseboats and the Leamington Lift Bridge. For a longer walk, continue to Slateford Aqueduct (2.5 miles) which carries the canal for 152 metres above the Water of Leith and the road below. A path beside the bridge takes you to the Water of Leith Conservation Trust visitor centre, loos and a cafe. In the area, try welcoming Kafe Kweer for coffee, pastries and hearty vegetarian lunches, or The Fountain for pub food and pints before retracing your steps back along the canal, duly refreshed.
The Pitt, Granton
Appetising … Soul Water Sauna in Granton.
Newly reopened in a new location earlier this year, The Pitt is a street-food destination worth knowing about. It’s on the waterfront at Granton with views across the Firth of Forth, easily accessible by bike or a 10-minute walk from the bus stop. Vendors change but currently include Choola Nepalese street food and Lebanese wraps from Lazeez. There’s a big indoor bar area and regular events. On site you’ll also find Soul Water Sauna, with two saunas and cold water plunge pools: a unique way to work up an appetite. From here you can walk along the promenade to Cramond village (2.3 miles) and if the tides are right, even walk out to Cramond island over the causeway.
Lothian Buses 22 from Lothian Road to Waterfront Avenue then a 10-minute walk. The Pitt is open Thursday to Sunday.
Lothian Buses and Edinburgh Trams are contactless, tap on and tap off, single fares are £2.20, capped at £5 per day. Download the Edinburgh Bus and Tram app to plan routes and track bus times.